On my very first sightseeing trip to Kyushu, I explored Nagasaki’s Dejima and the Glover Garden, as well as Kumamoto Castle. From Kumamoto, I rented a car and headed toward the majestic Aso mountain range. After taking in the panoramic views from the Daikanbo Lookout, I continued my journey to Takachiho.
The Five Peaks of Aso
Looking south from Daikanbo, the “Five Peaks of Aso” (Aso Gogaku) stretch out before you. As seen in the photo, from left (east) to right, they are: Mt. Nekodake, Mt. Takadake, Mt. Nakadake (which is lower and harder to see but was emitting smoke), Mt. Eboshidake, and Mt. Kishimadake. It is said that these peaks took their current form about 30,000 to 50,000 years ago, following a period of intense volcanic activity.
The Drive to Takachiho
After a two-hour drive along the eastern corridor of the Aso mountains, I arrived in Takachiho, Miyazaki Prefecture. The scenery along the driveway was breathtaking, especially with Mt. Nekodake—the easternmost of the five peaks—towering right in front of me during the trip.
I reached Takachiho around 3:00 PM. Since the sun was still high, I headed straight to Amanoiwato Shrine, which is located a short distance from the town center. Although the nearby parking lots were full because of the late hour, I managed to find a spot a little further away. I was able to visit the shrine and the Amanoyasu-kawara—a legendary riverbank inside a massive cave where the gods are said to have gathered.
The Morning Mist at Takachiho Gorge
The next morning greeted me with crisp, beautiful weather. I took a 10-minute drive to the main highlight of my trip: Takachiho Gorge.
A quick tip for readers: because the gorge is so popular, the convenient parking lots are small. By the time I arrived shortly after 8:00 AM, they were almost full. If you’re visiting by rental car, I highly recommend starting your day as early as possible. Besides, they say the atmosphere of the gorge is at its absolute best in the fresh morning air.
Columnar Jointing
Takachiho Gorge runs along the Gokase River. The stunning cliffs are made of “columnar jointing”—hexagonal rock formations created when pyroclastic flows from Mt. Aso’s eruptions were rapidly cooled by the river water. Over countless years, erosion has sculpted them into the beautiful sights we see today.
Manai Falls
This elegant waterfall is selected as one of Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls and is the undisputed symbol of Takachiho Gorge. Even early in the morning, the area was buzzing with tourists enjoying boat rides at the foot of the falls.
The Origins of “Manai”
Throughout Japan, you’ll find many places named “Manai,” a word associated with pure, crystal-clear water. The “Manai Falls” here in Takachiho is actually the original source of that name.
It reminded me of my time living in Nishi-Maizuru (the gateway to the Sea of Japan in Kyoto). The shopping district there is called “Manai-dori,” and there is a spot where delicious natural water gushes out. It was wonderful to drink as is, or used for brewing tea and coffee.
Takachiho Shrine and the “Husband and Wife Cedars”
After soaking in the ethereal atmosphere of the gorge, I ended my tour of the town at Takachiho Shrine, the head shrine of the eighty-eight shrines of Takachiho-go, said to have been established 1,900 years ago.
The shrine is famous for blessings in matchmaking and marital harmony. I was particularly struck by the “Meoto Sugi” (Husband and Wife Cedars). These two massive trees share a single root system but grow tall as two separate trunks. Because they are “firmly joined,” they are popular with newlyweds and couples praying for a happy marriage and prosperity for their descendants.
Photo: The Meoto Sugi Look! The two trunks are perfectly connected at the base.
After driving from Mt. Aso to Takachiho and visiting Amanoiwato, the Gorge, and the Shrine, I set off for my next destination: Miyazaki City. I’ve been blessed with wonderful weather, making this an incredibly pleasant journey so far.
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