Beyond the Veils of Esoteric Buddhism: Discovering the Spiritual Heart of Japan Through a Personal Blessing.”

My connection with Enryakuji spans over 50 years. Beyond its historical significance, this temple holds a deeply personal place in my heart, rooted in a transformative encounter with a legendary monk.

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About Enryakuji

Located on the serene slopes of Mt. Hiei, overlooking the beautiful Lake Biwa and the city of Kyoto, lies Enryakuji Temple. As a UNESCO World Heritage site and the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, this temple complex is more than just a tourist destination—it is a spiritual sanctuary with over 1,200 years of history.

The Three Areas of Enryakuji Enryakuji is vast, divided into three main sections: Todo (East Pagoda), Saito (West Pagoda), and Yokawa.

  • Todo: The heart of Enryakuji. Here you will find the Konpon Chudo, the main hall where the “Inextinguishable Dharma Lamp” has burned for more than 1,200 years.
  • Saito: A quieter, forested area featuring the oldest building on the mountain, the Shakado. The atmosphere here is deeply meditative.
  • Yokawa: Located further away, this area offers a peaceful retreat with a unique architectural style that feels tucked away from the world.

The Experience:Stepping into Another World

Walking through the towering cedar trees and moss-covered paths of Mt. Hiei, you can feel the weight of history. The air is crisp, and the sound of distant temple bells adds to the mystical ambiance. Whether you are interested in Buddhist philosophy or simply seeking a break from the hustle and bustle of Kyoto, Enryakuji offers a profound sense of peace.

How to Get There

The journey to Enryakuji is part of the adventure. Most visitors take the Eizan Cable Car and Ropeway from the Kyoto side or the Sakamoto Cable Railway (the longest cable car in Japan) from the Shiga side. Both routes offer breathtaking panoramic views.

Note for Winter Travelers: Please be aware that the Eizan Cable Car and Bus routes from the Kyoto side are usually suspended during the winter season (from early January to late March). During this period, the temple is only accessible via the Sakamoto Cable Railway from the Shiga side, which operates year-round.

Biwako Lake from Mt. Hiei

My Spiritual Connection: Meeting a “Living Saint”

The legendary monk I mentioned is the late Sakai Yusai Dai-Ajari. He is one of the very few to have completed the “Sennichi Kaihogyo”—a grueling 1,000-day spiritual walk—not just once, but twice. Meeting him in 2007 was a life-changing experience for me.

I still clearly remember the warmth and spiritual strength of his hand when he placed it on my shoulder to offer a blessing. Returning to Mt. Hiei this year after a nine-year absence, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. I truly believe that his prayers have protected me and allowed me to stand here in good health once again.


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About Kazu

An 82-year-old traveler and former NYC expat. For 12 years, I’ve spent my springs in Okinawa to enjoy its rich culture and serene nature. Leveraging my global perspective, I share hidden gems and the true essence of Japan with the world through this blog. ⛳️

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