I recently learned that the 2028 NHK Taiga Drama will feature the story of John Manjiro—the man who survived a shipwreck, lived on a deserted island, was rescued by a whaling ship from the U.S. East Coast, lived in Fairhaven, Massachusetts, and finally returned to Japan in 1851 after a decade away. This news immediately brought back memories of reading Tsubaki to Hanamizuki (Camellias and Dogwoods) by Yo Tsumoto about 15 years ago.
Knowing that the spot where Manjiro and his companions first stepped back onto Japanese soil was Odohama Beach in Itoman City, at the southern tip of Okinawa Main Island, I decided to rent a car and head there immediately.
Heading to Odohama Beach (John Man Beach)
The drive from Naha City to Odohama Beach is quite convenient via Route 331, which passes near Naha Airport. It’s a wide, easy-to-drive highway; with safe driving, it takes about 40 minutes from Naha. After passing the “Himeyuri Monument” in central Itoman, you will see the entrance to Odohama Beach, affectionately nicknamed “John Man Beach.”
When Nakahama Manjiro (John Manjiro) returned to Japan in 1851 after ten years in America, Odohama Beach was the very first place he landed. At that time, Okinawa was the Ryukyu Kingdom. Manjiro and two companions crossed the rough waves of the Pacific in a small boat named the “Adventurer.” Today, a bronze statue of Manjiro and a commemorative monument stand near the entrance, with the hero facing the sea. While this is a historic site where Manjiro took his first steps as a “bridge between civilizations” during Japan’s period of national isolation, it is also a popular “mecca” for diving and snorkeling thanks to its stunning coral reefs. It is a spot where you can feel the breath of history while enjoying the crystal-clear waters.
The Landing Site of John Manjiro’s Party
A monument stands at the exact spot where they arrived, honoring the courage and ingenuity it took to cross the Pacific.
- The Statue of John Manjiro: His hand points firmly in the direction of the United States.
- The Story of the Journey: A hexagonal monument tells their story across six illustrated panels, covering the shipwreck, their rescue, life in Massachusetts, and their eventual arrival in Okinawa.
The “Adventurer”
Driven by a deep longing for his mother waiting in his hometown of Tosa, Manjiro headed to California during the Gold Rush to earn money for a ship. In a short time, he earned $600 (equivalent to roughly 10 million yen today).
He then traveled to Honolulu, Hawaii, to recruit his fellow survivors, Denzo and Goemon. They acquired a small whaling boat, the Adventurer, and together they braved the wild Pacific waves until they reached the shores of what is now Itoman City.
A Small Boat, A Great Courage Looking at the stone foundation shaped like the Adventurer, I was struck by a profound sense of emotion. I couldn’t help but think, “Did they really cross the sea in a boat this small just to get home?”
Conclusion
After his successful return, John Manjiro was interrogated but eventually employed by the Edo Shogunate. He served as an interpreter during the turbulent transition from isolation to the opening of Japan. Under the Meiji government, he became a professor of English at the Kaiseijo (the predecessor to the University of Tokyo).
The 2028 Taiga Drama, “John Man,” is something I am already looking forward to. I expect the number of tourists visiting “John Man Beach” will skyrocket just before the broadcast begins. I felt very lucky to experience the quiet, peaceful atmosphere of the beach today before the crowds arrive.
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