Shibamata: Finding the Heart of Old Tokyo in a Nostalgic Riverside Town 

The Gateway to Yesterday

Stepping off the train at Shibamata Station, I felt as though I had drifted back in time to the Showa era. Standing in the plaza, the bronze statues of “Tora-san” and his sister Sakura greeted me, serving as a poignant reminder of the beloved film series Otoko wa Tsurai yo. Their presence immediately sets the tone for this charming neighborhood: a place where heart and tradition still pulse through the streets.

A Sensory Walk Down the Sando

The approach to Taishakuten Temple is a sensory delight. Walking down the narrow, bustling Sando (approach road), the air is thick with the sweet aroma of toasted dango and the savory scent of freshly grilled rice crackers. The wooden facades of the shops, some standing for over a century, tell stories of generations past. I couldn’t resist stopping for a piece of Kusa-dango—the mugwort-flavored mochi was a perfect balance of earthy sweetness and chewy texture.

Masterpieces in Wood and Water

At the end of the path stands the magnificent Shibamata Taishakuten Temple. Known as the “Temple of Carvings,” its intricate wooden reliefs are breathtaking. Each panel depicts Buddhist parables with such detail and dynamism that the figures seem ready to leap from the wood. Beyond the carvings lies Suikei-en, a serene Japanese garden. Sitting on the wooden veranda with a cup of matcha, watching the light dance on the pond, the frantic pace of modern Tokyo felt worlds away.

Whispers of the River

A short stroll from the temple leads to the banks of the Edogawa River. Here, the Yagiri-no-Watashi—the last remaining traditional boat ferry in Tokyo—quietly glides across the water. The sight of the wooden boat moving slowly against the backdrop of the wide sky and grassy banks is the epitome of peace.

How to Get to Shibamata Station

Shibamata is located in the northeastern part of Tokyo and is surprisingly easy to access from major city centers. Here are the most convenient routes:

From JR Ueno Station (Approx. 30–40 minutes)

1. Take the JR Joban Line (Local or Rapid) from Ueno Station and get off at Kanamachi Station.
2. Exit the JR station and walk just a few steps to the adjacent Keisei Kanamachi Station.
3. Take the Keisei Kanamachi Line for just two stops to Shibamata Station.

From Tokyo Station (Approx. 45 minutes)

1. Take the JR Yamanote Line or JR Keihin-Tohoku Line northbound to Nippori Station.
2. Transfer to the Keisei Main Line (bound for Keisei Narita or Keisei Tsudanuma) and get off at Keisei Takasago Station.
3. Transfer to the Keisei Kanamachi Line and travel one stop to Shibamata Station.

Travel Tip: Using IC Cards

You can use rechargeable IC cards such as Suica or PASMO for the entire journey, including the transfer between JR and Keisei lines. Simply tap your card at the ticket gates for a seamless travel experience.